Selecting Cannabis Seeds

Starting from seed begins with getting your hands on some. For many it starts when they find a seed in some flower they purchased and they go ahead and germinate it.  Legendary strains have been and will continue to be born this way… but with the access to quality genetics and an incredible number of strains being crossed and crossed and crossed in the cannabis seed market today, the prospects for finding great genetics can turn previously reasonable people into obsessed collectors. So much of what drives breeding, seed production and consumption is that potential of what the mysterious little bean holds and how that idea sows itself into your mind.  So where to go to find them?  Well the internet mostly.  Some states may allow sales of them in brick & mortar retail but online seed banks have proliferated in recent years in North America alongside the ongoing roll out of medical and recreational cannabis.

Some seed banks to get you started Neptune Seed Bank (US), Seeds Here Now (US), Deeply Rooted (US) Attitude Seed Bank (International) Seedsman Seed (Bank International)

Once you find a seed bank you like then it’s looking for a breeder. Or if you already have a breeder you like then it’s finding a seed bank that carries them. But finding a good seed bank gives you a working list of breeders to look at. Then you can research them on forums (like THCFarmer, OverGrow, 420Magazine), on web based strain guides (like Leafly) or their website if the breeder has one. Most of the breeders and seed banks have a social media presence on Instagram, which is where I’d recommend spending the most time digging into plant pics from the breeder’s customers. You can easily access pics all throughout people’s grows with the various strains you might be interested in. And you can often ask them questions and get responses as many growers love sharing their grow knowledge and experience. Choosing a breeder is pretty subjective in a lot of ways and there’s a lot of hype created around different strains and brands. But there’s also real benefits to choosing breeders who are working with proven genetics overtime and are testing their seeds before releasing widely.

A short list of some breeders to help get you started on your research. Exotic Genetix, Inhouse Genetics, Raw, Swamp Boy Seeds, Capulator, Humboldt, DNA, Relentless, Cannarado, Top Dawg, Thug Pug, 3rd Coast, Jinxproof, Cali Connection, Dynasty Genetics, Caper Purple, Raw Genetics, Mephisto Genetics (Autos), Night Owl (Autos)

Look around for cannabis seeds on a seed bank website and you’ll start seeing “Regular”, “Feminized” “Autoflower” and “Photoperiod” in the seed description. In short Regular means can be male or female. Feminized means bred to produce female plants only (hopefully, some increase in intersex traits (male flowers mixed in with female flowers) due to potential genetic instability from feminizing).  That being said, mostly I have had good experiences with feminized seeds. Minimizing environmental stress is important with all plants but maybe just a bit more so with feminized seeds. Autoflower means the seed that plant produces is on a timer once it is germinated regardless of day/night length and will go through vegetative and flowering on a preset timeline, somewhere between 60-90 days from sprout to harvest. Photoperiod means that the plants vegetative and flowering phases are initiated by length of night/darkness. Once they hit 12hrs Day/12hrs Night flowering will begin. Growers can keep photoperiod plants in vegetatives states for as long as needed before flowering or continuously for growing mother plants to produce cuttings to start new cycles of the same strain. The timeline for photoperiod plants is usually measured as Flowering time and that usually falls somewhere in the 8-10 week range. Vegetative times vary as seeds can be flowered immediately or grown for weeks or months before flowering. As far a clones/cuttings are concerned, Photoperiods whether Regular or Feminized can produce cuttings. Autoflowers however, must be started from seed because even a cutting taken from an Auto already has a ticking biological clock that won’t be delayed. Both Photoperiods & Autoflowers can be Regular or Feminized. The difference is the effect of day length or darkness really and whether or not it is necessary to initiate flowering.

The last thing I’ll mention here is a valuable resource for looking up genetic lineages of strains you might be interested in trying. SeedFinder.EU is an incredible online reference for discovering the strains modern breeding has been created with and will continue to be built with indefinitely into the future. It can be pretty intimidating to navigate at first but can become an invaluable tool in figuring out what might be the next winner in your garden.

Selecting A Fertilizer

The 2 main options are Synthetic or Organic Fertilizers. Synthetically derived fetilizers are manufactured from minerals, gasses from the air and inorganic waste materials. Organic Fertilizers are derived from plant and animal sources such as manures, composts, kelp meal, blood meal, bone meal etc., plant extracts/ferments and so on. Both have their pros and cons. Synthetic Fertilizer feeds the plant directly with higher concentrations of NPK that are quickly absorbed by the plant. Organics feed the soil microbial life which in turn converts it into absorbable nutrients and then feeds them to the plant more slowly over time. Both Synthetics and Organics come in dry and liquid forms.  Synthetics are cheaper. Organics are more expensive at the beginning but if you can learn to build and care for living soil it can become cheaper over time. Synthetics can give you more control over what you’re feeding but can also cause nutrient burn (too high of nutrient concentration in root zone causing leaves to droop, yellow, turn brown and crispy) or worse yet nutrient lock out (even higher concentration which alters the mediums pH and prevents nutrient absorption by roots). Organics can have nutrient deficiencies that can be hard to diagnose and slow to correct but the slow release is generally protective against burn & lockout. Synthetics don’t offer much in the way of immune support and pest resistance. They can be supplemented with microbes but application is ongoing throughout the entire cycle as there’s no soil food web to create a self-sustaining population. Appropriate use of Organics builds microbial populations and helps support plant health and immunity to pests and disease. And finally Organics can produce a stankier and more flavorful flower than Synthetics but that being said a whole lot of how dank your flower is based on genetics and the care taken during the drying and especially the curing of your herbs.

 

If I was going to recommend a simple route for Organics I would recommend purchasing some Roots Organics Soil (Peat and Perlite with Compost) with a prepared dry amendment kit from Nature’s Living Soil. This is as plug n play as organics gets. Mix your dry amendments in (which smells like holy hell btw.. until it’s mixed in and watered) with the Roots Organics and you’ll have an add straight water only set up.

 

If you can’t find Roots Organic Soil then you can make your own soil by Combining equal parts Peat, Perlite & Compost. Look up Clackamas Coots Soil Recipe for more info. Or go to Build A Soil or KISS Organics online for great info and products.

 

For synthetic nutrients there are A LOT of options and products in this category. Good success can be had with simple 2 or 3 Part Powdered Nutrients like Jack’s, FrontRowAG, Veg+Bloom or Bottled lines Like Botanicare, Canna, House & Garden and Athena. The list goes on and on. Choose the best you can afford but save room in your budget for some supplements like Microbials(increase nutrient uptake), Bat Guano (increase aroma/flavor), Enzymes (Breaks down salts to reduce nutrient build up) and a Silica Product (increases nutrient uptake, strengthens stems, increases drought tolerance) if you can afford it like Power Si or Dyna-Gro Pro-TeKt.

Selecting A Pot or Container

There are 3 widely used options for pots for growing cannabis in.  The old standby plastic Nursery Pot, the Fabric Pot, and the Air-Pot® or similar.

The Nursery Pot is widely available and comes in a wide range of sizes.  They generally are made of ABS plastic, have a few drain holes on the bottom, are easy to clean and are by far the most affordable option. Probably the biggest issue with nursery pots is that roots tend to grow toward and focus on the base and side walls of the pot causing the roots to elongate and circle around the bottom of pot.  This circling creates a couple issues. First, circling roots don’t fork as much because they are not being air pruned.  Air pruning is when a root tip meet the interface between the open air and soil.  The root dries out and prunes it self and this encourages the root to send new fibrous feeder roots off laterally in other directions to seek water and nutrients.  Second, when the roots are concentrated along the base and side of a pot they are susceptible to drying out more quickly than if the roots were distributed more evenly throughout the medium or soil.  Third, when you go to transplant, circling roots are slower to colonize the new medium and larger pot, adding some days onto your veg cycle.

The Fabric Pot, like the Nursery Pot, is also extremely popular and widely available and comes in a range of sizes.  The fabric pots tend to be a little bit wider, perhaps in order to be more stable without a rigid bottom.  They come in mostly Black and Tan but there are many fabric pot makers out there with a variety of fabric types and colors.

Manufacturers like Smart Pot®, GeoPot® and Grass Roots® come to top of mind for good quality at a modest price. Rain Science™ for a good quality alternative to try, with the fabric being a tightly woven plastic mesh rather than felt.  For custom designed & colorful high quality check out Honor the Plant™ Grow Bags.

Fabric Pots have some important benefits over Nursery Pots, with the most noteworthy of them being the air pruning of roots that was mentioned earlier.  The fabric is a thick horticultural grade felt that keeps soil in but allows air, water and roots to migrate through easily.  And when the root tips grow through the fabric layer they are air pruned and the lateral forking creates a much denser root ball as a result.  Dense root balls are more drought resistant as the plants draw more evenly from all the medium in the pot.  This also maximizes the value you are getting from your medium and nutrients as well.  Fabric also breathes and drains well, keeping the root zone cooler, oxygenated and less soggy than plastic pots.  A couple things to mention on Fabric pots.  First they are a bit difficult to transplant out of and requires considerable care when doing so.  Some manufacturers add a velcro strip to open up the side wall on smaller sizes but it is still a bit more cumbersome of a process than rigid pots.  Second is that they are a little more money than nursery pots and have a relatively short life span (2-5 years depending on use and care).  While you can clean fabric pots to some degree, it is a losing battle over time and nutrient build up and grime can accumulate on even the tidiest of grower’s fabric pots.

Finally the Air-Pot®.  Air-Pot® is a Scotland based company founded by the Jamie and Susie Single in 1990.  This pot is the most high performance pot on the market I am aware of.  The pot is made up of a specially designed side wall that wraps around a plastic base and is secured to itself with 2 fixings into the side wall holes.  It’s difficult to describe the molded design of the side wall but it has like a deep waffle design that guides the roots to small holes on the side wall where they are air pruned just like the fabric pots.  The base gives shape & structure to the side wall and acts a screen to keep the medium in and lets air, water and roots through easily.  The base also sits at least an inch or so off the bottom so there is no potential for roots sitting in a puddle.  These pots make some of the densest root balls I have seen and they make the absolute most out of your soil.  With a bit of care every square centimeter of soil will be occupied with dense roots fibers.  When it comes to transplanting, Air-Pots® are easy to remove without damaging roots and the rootballs they produce don’t skip a beat when colonizing new medium.  The ABS Plastic components they’re made of is great quality and are designed to last for years. The only real downside to these is the set-up, break-down and cleaning of them.  It takes some time and effort for sure but it’s worth it over the long run.  And pro tip if you soak them fully submerged in a tub of water overnight it will make the work load much lighter:). The price of these may scare away some but the ROI on them is excellent.

Selecting a Grow Medium

A Grow Medium refers to the various types of substrate for cultivating the roots of a plant in.  The term medium refers to both Soil that IS alive and Soilless Substrates that are NOT alive or are basically sterile or inert.  A Soilless Medium and its lack of any amendment or nutrient load means that any fertilization must be added to the medium to feed the plant. Some examples of Soilless Mediums are Peat, Coco Coir, Rockwool, Expanded Clay Pellets, Perlite, Vermiculite and even Water. A true living organic soil grow can produce some very tasty flower but it takes some know-how to pull off good yields of that quality flower.

There are some ready to add amendment kits, like Nature’s Living Soil, that can can be mixed in with a blend of of equal parts peat, perlite and compost.  

But for starters I’d recommend going with a Soilless Medium, something like Peat & Perlite or a Coco Coir & Perlite Mix. Like a ProMixHP for example, Fox Farm’s Lucky Dog, or Canna Coco.  A medium with 20-35% perlite holds more air and dries more quickly than peat or coco alone is also a good idea.  This can protect against overwatering and the soggy conditions and the plagues that brings.  Many have some Mycorrhiza (Beneficial Fungi) to help increase nutrient uptake and I would suggest adding some of your own microbial supplement like a Recharge, Great White or Mycos & Azos from Extreme to name a few.